20 Years of Erdem

Erdem celebrates 20 years with a special capsule of ten re-editioned looks selected from two decades of Erdem's archive, photographed by Daniel Archer. The collection is now available at Dover Street Market with a special installation on the Ground Floor.

Erdem Moralioglu's first womenswear collection debuted in 2005 and quickly gained recognition with its language of poetic and modern femininity, forging the brand's own unique path within the fashion industry. For two decades, Erdem has established an illustration of womanhood that inspires strength and confidence for whom he designs.

"An act of remembering" – the collection returns to the silhouettes, prints and textures that have shaped the house’s narrative since its founding. Each look is accompanied by a bespoke embroidered patch inscribed with its original season and look number.

To celebrate the launch, DSM spoke with Erdem Moralioglu.

You were first stocked at Dover Street Market early in your career. What do you remember about that moment, and what did it mean to you as a young designer?
Being stocked at Dover Street Market early on felt like an extraordinary affirmation. As a young designer in London you experience so many highs and lows. And so to be embraced by the Dover Street world felt incredibly meaningful. 

What makes Dover Street Market the right place to showcase your 20th Anniversary capsule collection?
Dover Street Market feels like a natural home for this anniversary because it has always treated fashion as more than just clothes. It’s a place where so many different worlds collide.  The capsule itself is an act of remembering, a conversation between past and present and it felt very natural to celebrate it with Dover Street. Ironically, in 2014 I created an installation for Dover Street’s ten year anniversary. Returning now, over ten years later, with my own twentieth anniversary capsule feels like a continuation of that shared history.

What kind of experience do you want the Dover Street Market customer to have when encountering this capsule in-store?
I hope there is a sense of discovery - that each piece feels layered with memory. Every look is accompanied by an embroidered label inscribed with its original season and look number, which quietly anchors it in time. I would like the customer to feel the continuity - to see how silhouettes, prints and textures have shaped the narrative of the house since its founding.

Is there a meaning behind the 10 looks selected for the capsule? What was the selection process like?
The ten looks were drawn from two decades of our archive. They were chosen as a study and celebration of the house codes. I approached it as a narrative exercise - identifying garments that marked turning points or crystallised particular ideas. The capsule includes, for example, a botanical guipure dress from Spring Summer 2015, inspired by Marianne North, a crystal-embroidered patchwork jacquard coat from Spring Summer 2022, inspired by forensic restoration. Together, the ten looks trace a story of our past.

Is there a specific piece in the collection that feels especially symbolic of your 20 year journey?
The Autumn Winter 2006 printed voile gown covered in love birds is especially symbolic for me. It references my very first collection - the beginning of what has become a twenty-year dialogue.

As you celebrate 20 years, what excites you creatively about the future?
What excites me most is the sense that the narrative continues. Twenty years feels less like an endpoint and like an opportunity to remain curious, to ask new questions, and to allow the work to keep transforming.

The collection has arrived at Dover Street Market with a special installation on the Ground Floor.

For any enquiries please contact us via
Email: concierge@doverstreetmarket.com
Phone: +44 207 518 0680
WhatsApp: +447388376893

Or click here to book an in-store appointment